This post is dedicated to the three awesome section-hikers I met on my "last day". Without them, I'm not sure how I would have made it home.
Day 82: June 19th: A Wounded Animal.
It took me forever to leave the Howard Johnson in Daleville. PMac had left at 6am, but I hung around until noon. It was hot and humid - the air was heavy, and I was setting out on a knee injury. Stupid, I know, but thru-hiking is sometimes painful, my previous knee pain (back by the NOC) had cleared itself up, and I didn't have the time or money to sit around and let it heal up.
I walked about a quarter-mile before I needed to sit down and take some advil for my knee pain. As I set out once again, I couldn't help but cry - I was alone, in a brace, slightly limping, and carrying a full pack. I felt vulnerable - as if I was a wounded animal.
La la la. Walking over more footbridges.
I am thankful for hikers that carry colored pencils and brighten up the log books a bit!
I leap-frogged with Rhino basically the entire day, as the AT kept zig-zagging across the Blue Ridge Parkway (a beautifully scenic route that stretches up through the Shenandoahs). Lots of views from the road!
Constantly crossing roads...
Ridges on ridges on ridges.
Seriously - blueberries.
Eventually, it came to a point where Rhino and I discussed our plans for the evening. We were about 5 miles from the goal-destination, but it was starting to get late. Camping spots were scarce, so I decided to push on to the shelter, while Rhino scouted a location to set up his tent. I mentally prepared myself for what was to come, foolishly convinced myself there was a chance I could make it before night-fall, and booked it.
When it comes to night-hiking, I try to not use my headlamp until I absolutely can not see the trail. Once you start using artificial light, you cut off all peripheral vision, and limit yourself to what is directly in the path of your light-source. That, to me, is scarier than using moonlight as a guide. I really try my hardest to keep my thoughts rational and up-beat while night-hiking, but walking alone through unfamiliar terrain in the dark gets to you after an hour or so.
Eventually I was forced to put my head-lamp on (with about 1 mile left to go), so I just kept my head down and stared at the trail the entire time. It was such a relief to finally find the sign for the shelter. As I turned off the AT onto the blue-blaze, I passed PMac and Wonderland as they set out for their 10 mile night-hike (at 10:30pm!). I was in no state to join them, so I continued to the shelter where I found Bubbles, Zeta, Hawk, and Bird-Call making coffee before they set-out after the other two.
Good old Bobblets Gap!
This is where Zeta gave me poison ivy soap! What a doll - that stuff is the best.
So I set up my sleeping bag in the shelter next to a hiker I believe was called Mags. I wish I could remember his trail-name because we spent the next few hours chatting and getting to know one another - It really felt like a shelter slumber party, and I loved it!
Shelter: Bobblets Gap Shelter
Miles today: 18.5
Miles from Springer: 742.5
Miles to Katahdin: 1442.8
June 20th started out as a really difficult day due to my (now-chronic) knee-issues. I hobbled along the trail for about an hour or so - but then just shut down and sat on a rock for 45 minutes and did nothing. I couldn't bring myself to keep going at that point.
BB-gun holes?
Slightly unsettling.
Two section hikers then came upon me, and I decided to walk with them - I definitely needed the company. Even at my decreased pace, I was able to easily keep up with them.
Took a quick break at Cove Mountain Shelter for some snacks and sanity.
Thoughts on bees.
Trail=home.
And then soon enough - I found myself at Jennings Creek, a much-anticipated swimming spot! PMac and that whole night-hiking group were still lounging around - honestly, it wasn't a bad spot to zero. And that's when I looked across the river and spotted one of my all-time favorite hikers - Sunshine! I was super confused as to why she was there - her and her husband, Breeze, had been ages ahead of me back during Trail Days! They had been (very slowly) hiking with Homegrown, Savage, and their dog, Bailey, who I had met back in Hot Springs. It was a joyous time.
Sunshine's dad was on his way to visit for a few nights, so they convinced me to hang around the river until he arrived. So we swam, and caught up, and made lunch - and then found out that there was a flash flood warning in effect for the evening. Sunshine and Breeze convinced us to walk the mile to Middle Creek Campground, and spend the night there in a cabin instead.
When we arrived, no more cabins were available, and camping was $12 each! Thru-hikers have a very difficult time paying to camp (understandably so), but because it was supposed to storm that night, the owners let us sleep in the game-room!
Yogi, Space-Cadet and I spent the evening watching movies, eating bacon cheeseburgers, and avoiding the outdoors. Sunshine and them went back to the river to camp (it never actually stormed...), and I agreed to meet up with them the next day.
Burgers and Ave Venture: Pet Detective.
Shelter: The Game Room at Middle Creek Campground
Miles today: 9.7
Miles from Springer: 752.2
Miles to Katahdin: 1433.1
June 21st was HOT. And it was humid. And it was gross. And I couldn't bring myself to leave the campground until around 4:30. So I spent all day icing my knee, watching more movies, and eating more bacon cheeseburgers.
Eventually though, it was time to get going. I couldn't possibly zero on Naked Hiking Day! So Yogi and I headed back to Jennings Creek, took a quick dip, and made our way into the woods.
The location of the hike was ideal for hiking naked - it was a shitty, uphill section that would not be used by unsuspecting day-hikers.
Hiking without clothing feels odd at first - but I quickly got used to it. Plus, hiking with a pack on makes you feel less naked. The weirdest part was when I had to take my pack off to get something. At that point, you're just like "la la la, ...I'm standing around completely unclothed in the woods now...."
After about 3 miles, I spotted Sunshine and her father a few hundred yards down the trail and decided it would be the appropriate decision to stop hiking naked. Yogi continued on to the shelter, while I stopped to make dinner, build a fire, and socialize with the group.
Once it got dark, I decided I wanted to sleep in the shelter, which was just a quarter mile down the trail. Everyone was already asleep by the time I arrived, so I quietly found a spot. This shelter was one of the more impressive ones, but the bugs were ridiculous and I had a hard time falling asleep with all the biting. It was hot, but I was forced to wear pants and a long-sleeve shirt to combat the bugs. I should've just camped...
Shelter: Bryant Ridge Shelter
Miles today: 3.8
Miles from Springer: 756.0
Miles to Katahdin: 1429.3
That morning, I back-tracked in order to say goodbye to Sunshine's father and encourage the group to make moves. At this point, Home-grown, Smokey Bear and the dog, Bailey still hadn't caught up - it turns out that Bailey was limping and they decided to yellow-blaze to Glassglow where we would meet them in a few days.
I went back to the shelter to pack up my gear, and ended up getting to know Silver Lining as I waited for the group to meet me. This group lolly-gagged even more than Bunny, Quail and Punch!
The day started with a 2000' climb - rough. Sunshine was upset all morning - seeing her dad had only increased her homesickness.
The AWOL guide told us of a 200' waterfall about 1 mile off trail that we decided to check out.
Only 1.1 off...
With hopes of swimming, we hid our packs and began the descent down the blue-blaze. We began questioning our decision almost immediately. And when we arrived, it was definitely a disappointment.
Sunshine and I making the best of a disappointing blue-blaze.
A little big farther up the trail was "The Guillotine". But my phone camera was all sweaty and I took horribly blurry photos. Bummer.
A well-known trail landmark: the guillotine.
We stopped at Thunder Hill Shelter for dinner, where we met two section hikers. Lots of bugs here, and rumors of bear activity, so we decided to continue along to a campsite about 3 miles north.
I went ahead of the group, but when it started to get dark and they hadn't caught up yet, I got scared. First i just sat on the ground and waited. But then I dropped my pack and went back to find them so I wouldn't be alone.
A cute look-out spot!
By the time we reached the campsite, I just wanted the day to be over. My knee-pain had brought me to tears, and I knew there was something seriously wrong, I just couldn't admit it to myself yet.
Shelter: Camping at Harrison Ground Spring
Miles today: 13.4
Miles from Springer: 769.4
Miles to Katahdin: 1415.9
The first 9 miles of the day were spent in solitude. The poison ivy around my ankles had gotten pretty terrible, so I was excited to get to Matts Creek Shelter and take a quick bath in the stream. Other hikers warned me about water-snakes they had seen swimming in the area, which made for a short, adrenaline-packed dip.
Candids during break-time.
Matts Creek Shelter!
(Not the best, but not the worst)
Luckily for us, it was a beautiful day!
Soon after, the group caught up and we set out towards the James River Footbridge. Thru-hikers have a handful of traditions/tasks to accomplish, and jumping off the footbridge was one I had been looking forward to the entire time.
Walking by water is the best way to walk!
Again, I went ahead of the group - and when I saw the bridge, I knew jumping off was a bigger deal than I originally thought. I'm slightly afraid of heights - I don't normally jump off things. But I knew I would regret it if I bailed out.
Yikes.
The longest foot-bridge on the AT!
Savage went first.
I told Savage he looked like Jesus...
Guys are getting thin these days...
And then, it was my turn. Might as well just get it over with so the anxiety goes away, right? Climbing over the railing only made it that much more nerve-wracking - once you get to that point, you basically have no choice but to jump. The longer you wait, the more anxious you become. But despite knowing this, I stood there for a few minutes and felt my heart pounding until Breeze started a countdown. And well, you can't let the group scream "one!" and not follow through.
Basically, jumping off the footbridge was the highlight of my week. The jump was freeing and the water was wonderful. Breeze went next (he also required a countdown), and then we attempted to peer-pressure Sunshine into it as well - but she's afraid of both heights and water, so we didn't succeed.
We had friends waiting at the free camping spot in Glassglow, so we packed up our gear and hitched into town. I really hate hitching - still to this day. It was extremely hot and we had all run out of water. 15 minutes passed and countless trucks had ignored our pleas. Also - the must frustrating thing: when drivers in completely empty cars wave at us! We don't want your wave, we want a ride!
Eventually we found out way into town. We went out to eat, resupplied a bit, and came up with a plan that would get us to Harpers Ferry in less than 2 weeks. It was rough, but we thought we could do it. I continued to ice my knee and hope for the best.
Just a casual dinosaur statue in the middle of town.
Hiker trash in Glassglow, VA.
So we hitched out, jumped off the bridge again, and hiked another 2 or 3 miles to Johns Hollow Shelter, where we slept for the night. A hiker named Boston, who I've been running into since before Damascus, was also in the area. I like him. He's a good one.
Just hanging out under bridges, doing hood-rat stuff with my friends.
Sunshine has since quit smoking! So proud :)
Thank god for adrenaline-packed bridge jumping.
Bugs were bad - into my tent I went.
Shelter: Johns Hollow Shelter
Miles today: 13.1
Miles from Springer: 782.5
Miles to Katahdin: 1402.8
My group got up at 4:30am and began hiking, but I slept in another hour or two. My knee was extremely stiff, and I wasn't sure I would be able to make up the hour lead they had on me.
Hot and Hazy.
The trail.
The body of a 5 year old boy was found at this exact spot.
Bailey decided to rest on top of the picnic table.
Homegrown staying behind with Bailey.
After we set out again, I had my first military-grade plane encounter. Though I couldn't actually see the aircraft, the sound was so intense, I felt like I was in The Hunger Games (when Katniss and Gale have to hide from the Capital planes in the woods). I was actually a bit fearful that I would be witness to a plane-crash. Later that day, I was in an open area where I was able to see the plane, and about 3 seconds later, felt as if I was 'hit' with the sound. Quite an odd experience - one I would never have had on Long Island.
I walked the next mile or so with Boston - discussing how our love for hiking was being questioned as we forced ourselves to do it day after day. Sometimes, the excitement wears thin. Which is completely normal - thru-hikers just want the glory of overcoming all the hardships. Despite all the downs, I still wanted to make it to Katahdin more than anything.
A few acres of protected/researched forest!
Boston and I stumbled upon the 800-mile marker - brightening up our day!
Woah baby!
Worn-out signs.
2 more miles? I got this.
I found all my friends at Brown Mountain Shelter - well, minus Homegrown who had stayed behind at the last shelter because Bailey couldn't walk. It was a rough night for me - I wasn't feeling well, and my knee was bumming me out. I tried to socialize, but I really just wanted to be alone. I went to sleep around 7pm.
Discarded poles and gear.
Everyone tends to trust everyone.
Shelter: Brown Mountain Creek Shelter
Miles today: 18.3
Miles from Springer: 800.8
Miles to Katahdin: 1384.5
Woke up bummed, started hiking bummed, called my mom at the Buena Vista road crossing and cried. While I was on the phone, a lady in a really, really nice car offered me a ride into Buena Vista (without me asking), but I didn't need to resupply, so I declined.
I had a serious case of the Virgin a Blues.
While on the phone, my mom told me that the family would be heading upstate for the next few days - was I sure I didn't need to get picked up? I assured her that I was just going to take a few zeroes in town - I had no intentions of heading home anytime soon.
Is it just me - or does that look like a decorative boot/shoe growing out of the tree?
Pretty solid views.
I made it to Hog Camp Gap around 1pm and left a note for my friends - I was stopping by Three Springs Hostel in order to pick up a package and not to worry if I didn't make it to The Priest Shelter that evening. I got picked up by the owner who was dropping off an old man with moderate dementia - Wolverine. I had heard about Wolverine, but this was my first time meeting him. His pack was way too big, which worried me - but he apparently made it this far - so I guess things have gone better than expected (though, he did need to get "rescued" at one point).
Sunshine's group deemed themselves "The Purple Blazers", as they would often pack out bottles/bags of wine.
I would recommend this hostel - as long as you've got the money.
When I got to the hostel, I decided to pay for a shower and then head back to the trail. This hostel was new and clean, but extremely expensive for a bed in the bunkhouse. Granted, it came with dinner and breakfast - but it was almost too expensive to justify.
But just look how clean and new it all is...
....Eventually, I gave in (surprise, surprise). I wanted a nap and I couldn't deny myself that luxury. So I hopped on a bunk, closed my eyes, and when I woke up - Octopus was there! I spent the evening limping around the hostel and justifying my choice to continue hiking. "Oh, my knee 'gets used to it' after the first few miles." "Oh, my friend is coming in less than 2 weeks - I'll take it easy when she gets here and then I'll head home to rest for a few weeks." Seriously. I couldn't even walk from my bunk to the dining room without limping. And yet, I fully intended on hiking 15 miles (with a full pack) the following morning? The desire to thru-hike encourages people to make dumb decisions. At least I can recognize that now.
Meow.
Shelter: Three Springs Hostel
Miles today: 8.1
Miles from Springer: 808.9
Miles to Katahdin: 1376.4
We woke up to an awesome home-cooked breakfast! Yay!
Octopus and his epic beard.
Pancakes, bacon, fruit!
What wasn't awesome was the torrential downpour occurring outside. It was one of those rain-storms that makes you appreciate being inside a warm, dry home. And yet, we were about to hike (at least) 14 miles in it. But, I seem to have a knack for stalling justtttt long enough to avoid actually walking during the heaviest rain (seriously, I have been successful with this multiple, multiple times).
So by the time I set out, it was just foggy and lightly sprinkling. My knee was not okay - and I knew it.
Elevating my knee in an attempt to alleviate the pain.
Depressing log-book entries.
(Luckily Finch showed up right afterwards.)
I wanted to do about 20 miles, but it took me 9 hours to go the 14 miles to The Priest Shelter due to my periodic crying and chronic limping. Though Octopus was dropped off 6 miles south of me (he had stopped at the Buena Vista road crossing), it didn't take him long to catch up. He sat down with me and attempted to make me feel better - I really appreciate his kindness - but I didn't feel better at all.
Before I started my hike, I wrote down about 3 or 4 justifiable reasons I would allow myself to stop hiking: a serious injury was one of them. I feel that some people occasionally welcome an injury - it gives them an excuse to quit without placing the "blame" on themselves. At one point, I might have felt like this - maybe I even felt like that with my first injury in Damacus. But I can tell you with 100% sincerity- I did not want to quit, regardless of it being justified. I felt (and still feel) so betrayed by my body.
I continued to the campsite - I could've squeezed in the shelter, but I needed to be by myself that night.
...but not before reading all the confessions in The Priest log-book. I'm not sure if you're supposed to confess your trail-sins, or your actual sins - but hikers did both.
The confessions...
- "I hate hiking/this stupid trail"
- "Sometimes I just cover my poop with rocks"
- "I confess that I peed in my tent. It was raining and I had dry clothes on and I didn't want to get out to pee. So I tried to use my P-style to pee in the vestibule, but some went forward and some went backward, leaving a puddle on the floor"
- "I'm not actually a hiker, I'm just a hobo"
- "I smoke crack for big miles"
- "I belive I've been walking in a state of severe depression since long before Virginia"
- "Pregnant women make me nervous"
- "Been trying to break up with my girlfriend for 8 months... I just can't do it. She's too nice"
- "I surface poop (cover it with leaves)"
- "I tried using the She-wee 3 times, and all 3 times, I peed on myself"
- "I still have nude photos of my ex, which I told her I deleted. 90% of my friends have seen them"
- "I find hairy girls remarkably attractive"
- "I have shat myself at least 3 times on the trail"
- "I killed a frog and got a dirty hummer"
- "I once dropped a pop-tart in the mud, but I just rinsed it off and ate it anyway"
Classic.
Shelter: The Priest Shelter
Miles today: 14.3
Miles from Springer: 823.2
Miles to Katahdin: 1362.1
I woke up to rain. A ton of rain. And a hole in my fucking tent/food bag because a mouse had chewed its way through! Of course, I knew this had always been a risk, but I had been sleeping with food in my tent without a problem since literally my first night on the trail!
I could barely put any weight on my left knee. The next 5 miles north consisted entirely of a steep down-hill - something I knew my knee wouldn't be able to handle. So I went to hang out (AKA cry) in the shelter, where I found 3-section hikers waiting out the rain.
A mouse-house in the shelter!
One of the section hikers poked it and two of the cutest mice ran out!
When I found out that they were heading home that afternoon, I decided to ask for a ride to Waynesboro, where I would take a few zeroes and give my knee a break. I wasn't thrilled with the thought of hiking south, but in the end, it was for the best. I had considered just zeroing in The Priest shelter, but I knew I would seriously regret passing up this hitch into town.
As I hiked south, I realized I should probably just hitch with these guys to Baltimore, and then find my way to NYC from there. I had no intentions of quitting, just taking a break for a week or two and skipping a few hundred miles. I was upset about missing Harpers Ferry and the Shenandoahs, but I knew this opportunity wouldn't come around again.
Hung out at the Montebello Country Store waiting for our 1st ride.
Hitching to my hitch.
The Blue Ridge Parkway is gorgeous!
And so I hopped in the car with a super awesome guy named Andrew, went on a 3-hour road trip to Baltimore, bought myself an $18 mega-bus ticket to New York, called my sister, and found my way home.
Shelter: Home. New York.
Miles today: 4.3 (southbound)
