Friday, May 1, 2015

The End of The Smokys, Relaxing in Hot Springs.

Trail Update: Gatlinburg to Hot Springs!

This goes out to one of the greatest people in my life - Tracy Black! Thank you for being one of my favorite traveling companions, for always giving me cute nicknames like teens and maybs, and for showing excitement at all my blog posts. 

Day 26: April 24th: Life's a Climb 
Continental breakfast at the Microtel was not as impressive as the one from the Quality Inn, but I scarfed down some donuts and toast and packed up my stuff. I knew I needed to find a hitch back to Newfound Gap, which gave me major anxiety. I tried to ask people at the gas station to give me a ride, but I failed miserably. I figured I might have more luck at the visitors center, so I called my little Johanna and walked 2 miles down the road. True story: I had a meltdown/panic attack because I felt so uncomfortable asking strangers for a ride. I must have taken at least a half hour to calm down - at which point, I think a couple felt bad for me and offered to give me a lift. (Yay for pity hitches!)

I arrived at Newfound Gap knowing I could probably catch up to my friends if I did 15 miles. I chat with my mom for a few, ate a honeybun, watched my puppy Lincoln on the Camp Bow Wow cameras while I had phone service, and headed up to the NC/TN border sign so someone could take my picture. That's when I saw Peas, Bunny, Quail and Punchline! Yay! I found my friends! (The previous morning they had gone to moonshine tasting and then got extremely sick in the woods and only did 6 miles or so...). We sat on the border for quite a while, soaking up all the trail magic before we set out for the day.


Yay friends at Newfound Gap!

Only 1972 miles to Katahdin! 

Bunny and I fell behind immediately because she was trying to text and hike while we still had service. Our bodies were still stiff, and we had full packs - so making it to the first shelter for a snack was a relief.


Taking a break at the Icewater Spring Shelter

It was here that Quail started to sing "It's a Climb" by Miley Cyrus (and hasn't stopped...). We believe that Miley wrote this song about her 2008 AT thru-hike.

Lyrics: There's always gonna be another mountain. Im always gonna wanna make it move. It's always gonna be an uphill battle, sometimes you're gonna have to lose. It's not about how fast I get there. It's not about what's waiting on the other side. It's a climb.

The rest of the day passed uneventfully except for the fact that my BRAND NEW SHOES BROKE. I was pissed - I stopped hiking and found a strong enough signal to get internet so that I could send an email to Outdoor 76 with pictures of the damage. I called them from the middle of the trail - luckily the guys at Outdoor 76 are seriously awesome and have been working on getting me a new pair. 
WTF Brooks?!

We arrived at the shelter, I set up my tent and started to boil water to make dinner -  I tend to sit surrounded by snacks while I cook, so I munched the whole time. Long story short, I couldn't finish my cheddar broccoli rice, so I found a random German hiker willing to eat my leftovers. He was very grateful and seemed to enjoy it! That evening Bunny and Quail visited my tent - after a rough mental day, we definitely needed to unwind and just laugh about it all. Though I was enjoying my solitude as a loner, these girls make me laugh hysterically - I know I need that.

It stormed that night. I awoke in the middle of the night, registered that it was raining, and promptly went back to sleep. 

PS I slept with a fire-warmed rock again and it was the bomb.


Shelter: Pecks Corner Shelter 
Miles today: 10.4
Miles from Springer: 217.2
Miles to Katahdin: 1968.1

Day 27: April 25th: Trail Mix.
We got a late start - our group was one of the last to leave the shelter that morning. (They are the biggest group of lolly-gaggers I've ever known.)

My home :)

Foggy mornings at the Pecks Corner Shelter.

I decided to fall back and listen to music all day (The Avett Brothers and Iron & Wine are basically my thru-hike soundtrack). It was cold and drizzly, so we stopped to make hot lunch (and wait for bunny who was lagging 15-20 minutes behind).

This was the day I discovered Bunny's trail mix. It's the greatest thing I've ever seen - an old tortilla bag filled with Oreos and peanut M&Ms. That's all - Oreos and Peanut M&Ms. Best trail mix of my life.

Ugh. I love this so much.

Bunny, Quail and I have been having a rough time sustaining our excitement lately. The days are long and physically taxing - by 3pm, I don't want to be hiking anymore. I know that this is part of the challenge, and I'm 100% positive that I will overcome it. The trail tests your endurance, but I am determined to make it to Katahdin. 

Walking single file down the trail.

PS. I'm the best firewood collector ever.

Shelter: Cosby Knob Shelter 
Miles today: 12.9
Miles from Springer: 230.1
Miles to Katahdin: 1955.2

Day 28: April 26th: Losing My Religion, Breaking My Vegetarianism.
I woke up a lot earlier than the others in my group and decided to head out alone - the book said thay there would be a look out tower in 2.5 miles, so I said I would wait for them there. Unfortunately, the tower was 0.6 miles off the trail, and the weather was foggy as hell, so we knew we wouldn't have a view at all. I waited at the start of the blue-blaze, played around on my phone and then decided to slack-pack to the tower. 


Mt. Cammerer Tower.

Supposed to be one of the most beautiful blue-blaze views on the entire trail...

I wish we had known about this lookout tower the night before because it looked like a really awesome place to camp-out for the night. I took pictures and left in less than 5 minutes. Waited for another 30 minutes. Finally my group arrived and decided to skip the look out tower and finish out the Smokys. (Most thru-hikers I've met were more than happy to leave the park.)

 Quail needed to go to a Pharmacy, so we had planned on staying at Standing Bear Hostel and using their shuttles to town. When we got there, only 4 bunks were available (we were a group of 5), and a cabin would be $25 a person - for a total of $125! How outrageously expensive! Luckily, two kind section hikers (previous thru-hikers) offered to let us (and Prank Monkey) stay in their cabin home a few towns over. Joey and Meredith totally have their priorities right - they've extensively traveled and had converted the back of their car into a bed so that they could road-trip. I love their lives. We go back to their home and then head to walmart (ugh Walmart is so popular with thru-hikers apparently!). I bought a pair of shorts that aren't skin-tight, a 12-pack of reeses peanut butter cups and some cheese and avocados (I can't stop eating them). 


Lounging and relaxing. 

Organizing gear on the porch.

So let me preface this by saying: I have been craving meat out here more than I ever have previously. Normally I'm completely satisfied with my food, but out here has been extremely difficult. I decided that if I was craving it so badly, my body was telling me I needed some more protein. So I decided to break my vegetarianism. Unfortunately,  Quail made the decision that we would go to an All You Can Eat Chinese buffet that night. I don't know what I was thinking - I ate meat there. I didn't get sick (well, I was totally nauseous), but I was disappointed (as usual), and turned off to meat once again. 

Meredith and Joey paid for all our meals - their generosity is appreciated more than they know. They said that they had so much help/magic when they hiked the trail and that they wanted the chance to pay it forward. When they heard about Punchlines busted Gregory pack,  they straight up gave him a new one (Dueter).

Shelter: Meredith and Joeys Cabin
Miles today: 10.7
Miles from Springer: 240.8
Miles to Katahdin: 1944.5 

Day 29: April 27th: A Gorgeous Ending to a Long Long Day.
Meredith and Joey drove us back to the Standing Bear Hostel, where we socialized for a few and then got back on the trail.

Bobby Hill drinking a beer before heading out.

Again, Bunny and I fell behind, but caught up when the group stopped for lunch at Snowbird Mountain. 


Sunshine and clear skies!

We stopped by Groundhog Creek Shelter, where we all used the teeniest, tiniest privy I've seen so far. 


So. Awkward. 

Quail walking through the forest.

We were all getting quite cranky, but pushed through to Max Patch, a well-known spot on the trail. 


Even in the shadows, summitting Max Patch brightened our mood!

Such gorgeous views!
The top of Max Patch began to get chilly, so we walked a quarter of a mile and set up camp. A fire was already established, so I collected wood and warmed up. I head into my tent shortly after dark, content and snuggling with a toasty rock. (It wasn't even that cold - but its like a natural heating pad!)

Shelter: Camping by Max Patch 
Miles today: 13.8
Miles from Springer: 254.6
Miles to Katahdin: 1930.7

Day 30: April 28th: Sunrises and Sunbathing
I am totally a morning person. I knew that the sunrise was at 6:45, so I awoke around 6:30 and backtracked up Max Patch to watch the sun rise over the horizon.

Pictures never do the views justice. 

It was chilly, but I finally took time to stretch and  just enjoy the moment. I got back to camp and decided to start hiking, rather than get back in bed. 

I packed up, while Bunny, Quail and Punchline snuggled in their tents.

Most of the morning terrain was flat, so I made great time to the first shelter. Peas and I talked for a while and I made a hot lunch (teriyaki rice!). Peas had heard rumors that all the hostels were already booked in Hot Springs, so I decided I needed to figure out my game plan for the next day - which meant waiting for Bunny, Quail and Punchline. I had just passed a sunny field, so I turned around, blew up my sleeping pad, wrote a note saying to 'wake me up' and promptly took an hour and a half nap in the sun (I got a sweet tan). I had been saying for the past few days how much I wanted to sunbathe - and it was glorious. I awoke and they still hadn't arrived, but Meredith and Joey showed up for a bit - Meredith has a brand new pair of Solomon boots that she wants to gift me later on in my hike - I'm seriously blown away by their selflessness. They said my group was right behind them - that they should arrive any moment! It took 3 hours, but I was super excited to see them when I finally spotted them down the trail.

I love seeing art in nature.

Encouragement to push further/hike your own hike!

We planned on making it to a shelter for the evening,  but decided to cut the day short and camp on the side of the trail instead. 


Neighbors :)

The best fire on the trail so far! 

Shelter: Camping near Garenflo Gap
Miles today: 13.2
Miles from Springer: 267.8
Miles to Katahdin: 1917.5

Day 31: April 29th: My First Bacon Cheeseburger
As usual, I woke up way earlier than the group, and decided to head out into Hot Springs ASAP. On the hike down, I listened to music and was startled when a I saw an animal out of the corner of my eye! I quickly realized that it was a puppy! Luckily he had tags, so I planned on walking him to town and calling his owner. But before long, I heard a whistle and the pup went running to his owner in the woods.

I arrived at The Laughing Heart Hostel and checked into my single room early.


My own room! Ahh! Thanks Mom & Dad :)

I loved this hostel!  

The manager, Tie, was such a sweetheart. I felt right at home! 

Soon after, I met up with Bunny, Quail, Punchline - as well as Punchlines Mom and Cousin who came to join the hike for a few days. 

The Spring Creek Tavern.

So.... I had my first Bacon Cheeseburger of my life...

Well, I decided to give meat another shot. Unfortunately (or fortunately?), the burger was just okay. Overcooked, kinds bland. I was hungry, I ate the whole thing - but I'm officially back to being a committed vegetarian. I would like to thank Punchlines Mom for treating us to our lunch at the Tavern!

Afterwards, they head up to their cabin, and I went back to my hostel where I took a 3 hour nap. It was all I had wanted and more. I woke up, ate some food, Skype my BFF Alex for quite a while, and then heard a knock at my door. Peas came in and told me that he just found out his father needed heart surgery. During the conversation, he decided that he needed to leave the trail and spend this time with his family. I hope he will return in a future year and finish his thru-hike.

Shelter: Hostel at The Laughing Heart
Miles today: 6.1
Miles from Springer: 273.9
Miles to Katahdin: 1911.4

Day 32: April 30th: Bluegrass and Karaoke
Woke up. Packed up my life. Headed to the other famous Hot Springs hostel and dropped off my stuff. I hung around the Hiker's Ridge Ministries Resource Center (free wifi, coffee, love). It was a very social experience while I organized all my expenses. Around 12:30, I checked into the hostel which was built in 1875 and is on the National Registry of Historic Places.



The kitchen/main hub of the hostel.

The room I shared with Rollo...
I loved my bed by the window!

Around 4:00pm, I met up with the group and head up to their cabin to hang in their hottub. The cabin was gorgeous - again, lofts and fireplaces! I am further convinced that I need to live in a log cabin in my future. We hung around for a while and then walked down to town to see the Bluegrass band at The Tavern. 

This band was amazing - and they did trail magic a few days previously! 

When we arrived, the bar was super crowded, so Punchline and I detoured to the Mexican place next door for a quick bite to eat.

Vegetable Fajitas! Such huge portions!

Punchline and his quesadilla.

So we head back over to The Tavern and the music is fantastic. It makes me want to pick my violin up again! The place was full of drunk dancing thru-hikers, so I finally caved and had my first beer on the trail (Yuengling!) (The Yuengling Brewery is actually about 20 miles off the trail up in PA!).

Afterwards, about 25 of us moved next door to the Mexican Place for Karaoke! Quail, Bunny and I sung "It's a Climb" and "Absolutely (Story of a Girl)" - the whole scene was super trashy and awesome. 

Drunk Bobby Hill and Bunny singing country.

The scene around 11pm.

Around 11:30, I head back to Elmer's and called it a night! 


Shelter: Elmer's Sunnybank Inn B&B
Miles today: 0.0
Miles from Springer: 273.9
Miles to Katahdin: 1911.4

3 comments:

  1. Hi there Maybelline!

    I stumbled upon your blog via the instagram photos of the AT, as I’m planning to do the same thing within two years! For now, I try to conjure the feeling of participating a thru-hike through all the photo’s and blogs I can read. ;) Desperate, I know. I thought i’d let you know that I’m very thankful for your detailed posts, I really enjoy reading them and I’m very much looking forward for all the ones to come! ;)

    Full support from tiny Belgium (!), stay safe, keep on conquering those miles and may the wind be always on your back!

    Pierre!

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    Replies
    1. Hey! Thank you for your message and support - knowing I have people rooting for me is really encouraging on rough days (and helps motivate me to continue blogging). Feel free to ask any questions you may have about thru-hiking/the planning process.

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  2. This looks like so much fun! I wish I could just drop everything and come hike with you for a week. These blog posts always make my day. I sent you a letter yesterday, so hopefully you will get it soon! Lot's of love from California <3

    ReplyDelete