This one goes out to my BFFL Alex Hathaway for always dealing with my irrational anxieties and for having my best interest at heart 100% of the time. Not a day goes by that I don't wish she was out here hiking with me!
Day 15: April 13th: New Friends, Knee Issues and Afternoon Naps
Despite Leila waking me up at 4am demanding a casual stroll around town, I had really grown quite fond of her. Though I started off the weekend only vaguely knowing Peas, in less than 24 hours it truly felt as if we had adopted a dog together. I am grateful to have spent that time with such a compassionate individual and I hope our paths cross again somewhere down the trail. While we were emotionally torn between wanting to find her family and secretly hoping we (well, by we I mean Peas) could keep her, we called the vet the moment they opened. As expected, we were given the phone number to Leilas family and informed that her name was actually Ginger. Within the next half hour, Leila was gone. For those of you looking for some explanation (trust me, I was), the gentleman who picked her up was very grateful to see her and explained that him and his wife had recently adopted Leila and that she had a tendency to dig under the fence and escape. He offered us money for our troubles, but I just asked that he put tags on her.
Now, I'm not one to believe in fate or anything like that, but I'm starting to think that the trail has been giving me exactly what I need. Attempting this hike has made me realize that I have a difficult time deviating from the planned schedule in my head. It's hard not to get caught up in the obsession to put miles behind you, especially when everyone around you seems to be in such a damn hurry for some reason. Maybe it was just a coincidence - but having to choose between helping a lost dog or sticking to my ideal timeline encouraged me to stop and consciously think about my life priorities. I came out here to escape the confines of a rigid schedule, and yet I'm still having a difficult time letting go and simply living in the moment.
And so finally! Peas and I could now return to the trail. He had gotten picked up 4 miles before me, so we were forced to separate (our hiking paces wouldnt have matched up anyway). Luckily, War Cry and her friends were continuing from Winding Stair Gap (as was I), so I did not have to venture out alone - at least for now. I'd be lying if I said that this day was not the hardest one so far - physically speaking. The combination of a fully resupplied pack, rain, new shoes, three consecutive days off, and a mysterious pain in my knee (ugh) caused me to fall behind almost immediately. After only 4 miles, I called it a day. Granted, it was rumored to be raining 3-4 inches that night, so my new friends wanted to secure a spot in a shelter. And thus began: my first night without my tent.
I arrived around 2pm, not too long after everyone else due to the fact that they got lost for some reason I couldn't quite grasp. I made myself lunch/dinner, claimed a spot in the shelter and promptly fell asleep for the next 2 hours (yes!). Meanwhile, War Cry was playing Cee-lo and drinking wine from her collapsible cup (I miss all the fun, don't I?). We bummed around for the rest of the evening, and went to sleep shortly after dark. Worst. Sleep. Ever. I normally wake up a few times each night to zip/unzip my sleeping bag, but I felt like a nuisance when I made noise in the shelter. Plus I like sleeping with a snack (you can't have food in shelters because of mice), and I like having all my stuff laid out in my tent with me. All in all: shelter sleeping is not for me.
Shelter: Siler Bald ShelterNow, I'm not one to believe in fate or anything like that, but I'm starting to think that the trail has been giving me exactly what I need. Attempting this hike has made me realize that I have a difficult time deviating from the planned schedule in my head. It's hard not to get caught up in the obsession to put miles behind you, especially when everyone around you seems to be in such a damn hurry for some reason. Maybe it was just a coincidence - but having to choose between helping a lost dog or sticking to my ideal timeline encouraged me to stop and consciously think about my life priorities. I came out here to escape the confines of a rigid schedule, and yet I'm still having a difficult time letting go and simply living in the moment.
And so finally! Peas and I could now return to the trail. He had gotten picked up 4 miles before me, so we were forced to separate (our hiking paces wouldnt have matched up anyway). Luckily, War Cry and her friends were continuing from Winding Stair Gap (as was I), so I did not have to venture out alone - at least for now. I'd be lying if I said that this day was not the hardest one so far - physically speaking. The combination of a fully resupplied pack, rain, new shoes, three consecutive days off, and a mysterious pain in my knee (ugh) caused me to fall behind almost immediately. After only 4 miles, I called it a day. Granted, it was rumored to be raining 3-4 inches that night, so my new friends wanted to secure a spot in a shelter. And thus began: my first night without my tent.
Bonus pic from April 13th.
Swinging Dick Gap.
Who names these things?!
I arrived around 2pm, not too long after everyone else due to the fact that they got lost for some reason I couldn't quite grasp. I made myself lunch/dinner, claimed a spot in the shelter and promptly fell asleep for the next 2 hours (yes!). Meanwhile, War Cry was playing Cee-lo and drinking wine from her collapsible cup (I miss all the fun, don't I?). We bummed around for the rest of the evening, and went to sleep shortly after dark. Worst. Sleep. Ever. I normally wake up a few times each night to zip/unzip my sleeping bag, but I felt like a nuisance when I made noise in the shelter. Plus I like sleeping with a snack (you can't have food in shelters because of mice), and I like having all my stuff laid out in my tent with me. All in all: shelter sleeping is not for me.
The view from my sleeping bag:
Zissou smoking a hand-rolled cigarette.
Miles today: 4.2
Miles from Springer: 114.0
Miles to Katahdin: 2071.3
Day 16: April 14th: Magic On a Foggy Day
Even on the second day after resupplying, my pack felt heavier than usual. Luckily, the notorious hiker hunger was finally kicking in (I had been a bit worried that I would start to lose too much weight due to my lack of appetite), so I decided to make a hot breakfast in an attempt to decrease my food weight.
Again, I fell behind quickly, but I happily hiked in the fog and rain while I listened to music. Though I actually enjoy hiking in weather like this, the fog prevented me from experiencing some pretty spectacular sights.
Again, I fell behind quickly, but I happily hiked in the fog and rain while I listened to music. Though I actually enjoy hiking in weather like this, the fog prevented me from experiencing some pretty spectacular sights.
The breathtaking view from Wayah Bald Tower
(On clear days you can see the Smokies - 50 miles away!)
I caught up to the group at the Wayah Bald Shelter, where we took refuge from the rain and ate a leisurely lunch. I have been going out of my way to see all the shelters and read the log-books lately. Even though I'm a few days behind my original friends, I feel some sort of connection with them when I read their entries - and sometimes I even find quotes from my SOBO friend, Drew.
The rest of the day went quickly and a mile before our destination we ran into more trail magic! King Croc had been traveling along the trail in his RV cooking up hotdogs for thru-hikers. When I told him I was a vegetarian, he went into his fridge and offered me hummus!
King Croc and War Cry!
With only one more mile to go, we set out with full tummies and smiles on our faces. We arrived early enough to find an empty shelter, but I decided to set my tent up and camp (for the first time in days - I had missed the solitude). Though I had honest intentions of going to the shelter and socializing, my tent was all nice and toasty... and soon enough I was taking an accidental 6pm nap (I swear it was an accident). I woke up at 9, but at that point it was dark out and I knew everyone would be asleep by then. Whoops! ....I then spent the next three hours playing sudoku and freecell on my phone (nobody's perfect).
Miles today: 11.6
Miles from Springer: 125.6
Miles to Katahdin: 2059.7
Day 17: April 15th: A Night On My Own
I woke to the sound of rain against my tent - God, I love that sound. I knew I would have to pack up wet gear, but I just blissfully laid around for a bit before gathering my belongings and starting the day. As luck would have it, the rain had stopped just long enough for me to dismantle my tent. Though I caught the group still packing up, I decided to get a head start - I knew I wanted to zero at the Nantahala Outdoor Center (NOC) the following day, so I found a spot of cell service and made a reservation while ridiculously standing in the middle of the trail. The terrain was rough - the previous nights rain had turned the trail into a continuous puddle of mud that you couldn't avoid.
I spent the day leapfrogging with War Cry, but I was by myself the majority of the time. Again, I've never been a very sentimental or spiritual person, but for some reason, hiking alone in the rain has been allowing me to truly see the magic of the trail. Back when I was preparing myself for this endeavor, I stumbled upon an article that explained why hopeful thru-hikers decide to quit. One reason being that potential hikers romanticize the trail from the comfort of their homes only to be disappointed with the reality of the situation once they are actually experiencing it all. Sure, my body hurts, and in all honesty I can't tell if I've gotten tan or I'm just covered in dirt - but these discomforts are purely physical and are quite trivial in the grand scheme of it all. If you don't find the trail romantic and full of magic, you need to seriously slow things down and take a look around. I've been searching for this feeling for a long time and I don't intend on letting it leave anytime soon. I've only been out here for three weeks and I can already feel myself becoming the person I have always desired to be. I'm not out here taking a vacation from my life - this is life. I have decided to deliberately and purposefully live my life and I plan on soaking up all the romance of the trail while I have the chance. It's odd, I feel like I'm in a bit of a fairytale - as if I'm a character in a storybook. I had been so distracted by the normal routine of society that I have never even given myself the chance to see the beauty and magic.
Remember those brand new shoes I had three days ago?
I spent the day leapfrogging with War Cry, but I was by myself the majority of the time. Again, I've never been a very sentimental or spiritual person, but for some reason, hiking alone in the rain has been allowing me to truly see the magic of the trail. Back when I was preparing myself for this endeavor, I stumbled upon an article that explained why hopeful thru-hikers decide to quit. One reason being that potential hikers romanticize the trail from the comfort of their homes only to be disappointed with the reality of the situation once they are actually experiencing it all. Sure, my body hurts, and in all honesty I can't tell if I've gotten tan or I'm just covered in dirt - but these discomforts are purely physical and are quite trivial in the grand scheme of it all. If you don't find the trail romantic and full of magic, you need to seriously slow things down and take a look around. I've been searching for this feeling for a long time and I don't intend on letting it leave anytime soon. I've only been out here for three weeks and I can already feel myself becoming the person I have always desired to be. I'm not out here taking a vacation from my life - this is life. I have decided to deliberately and purposefully live my life and I plan on soaking up all the romance of the trail while I have the chance. It's odd, I feel like I'm in a bit of a fairytale - as if I'm a character in a storybook. I had been so distracted by the normal routine of society that I have never even given myself the chance to see the beauty and magic.
For those of you who need some concrete evidence: it's in the pure happiness that comes with celebrating the first signs of spring. Not just a feeling of "yes! winters over! no more snow!", but the moment of authentic joy when you notice the first blooming cherry blossoms of the season or when you look down while hiking in the rain to realize that all the little seedlings have started to sprout all at once. Sure, hiking is the rain is not always pleasant - but the forest is coming alive and we are here to witness it happening. It's the fact that we're hiking to elevations of 5000 feet and are, quite literally, walking through the clouds. Its in the mystery behind trail names - the fact that I only know people as they exist in that moment. And it's spending 24 hours with a stranger to help an animal find her way home.
Found in the log-book at A. Rufus Morgan Shelter.
"All the leaves in the forest are blooming and the world is turning green. I'm so excited to witness spring! I need to remember to take it easy and notice all the little changes. Sometimes I forget to appreciate where I am and all the life coming into being. I am astounded."
When we arrived at the last shelter before the NOC, I was in a blissful state and decided to stay behind by myself for the night while my group continued on. Due to the odd placement of the shelter, I felt it was unlikely that any other hikers would arrive. Up until that moment, I had not yet had the courage to spend the night alone in the woods. I spent the next few hours taking inventory of my gear, making food, and making a home out of the shelter.
Trying to dry out my tent/organize my food.
I was just about to settle in for the evening when I turned around and was startled by two men approaching. I quickly consolidated my gear and welcomed them into the shelter - though I was extremely disappointed. Within the next 15 minutes, the shelter was full and I was cramped into a damp corner. Fine, I could handle it. What I couldn't handle was the way that a fellow hiker was treating his dog. It wasn't outright abuse, but the dog was way too young to be backpacking (Luckily she's leaving the trail at Fontana Dam), and she was not trained well enough. Her owner dried himself off and did all his camp chores before attending to her needs - she laid there shivering for 20 minutes. Normally I would have said something, but I had a feeling this guy would not have taken it well. I wanted to leave the shelter, but the rain was too heavy to justify moving into my tent. My mood was ruined - but I was trying to see it as a test. It would have been inappropriate to get involved at that time, and I figured the pup would only be on the trail for another 3 days. I went to sleep early and hated every second of shelter sleeping that night.
Miles today: 10.7
Miles from Springer: 136.3
Miles to Katahdin: 2049.0
Day 18: April 16th: I Take Way Too Many Zero Days.
I woke up early, quickly gathered my belongings and briskly walked the mile to the NOC where I ran into a ton of familiar faces (War Cry and friends, Wings, Mother Nature, etc). I got breakfast at The Rivers End Restaurant, scoped out the outfitter and checked in early. I ran into Colleen, who I met in Franklin, who happened to be my roommate for the night! The bunkhouse wasn't great, but I was happy for a bed, clean laundry and a hot hot shower. I bought myself a knee brace, talked on the phone with people from home for hours (let me know if you wanna chat next time I'm in a town!), and went out to eat at The Rivers End again for lunch. Things are getting expensive, I have to slow down. But I couldn't resist a vegan burger - and hey, I'm trying to maintain my weight here!
Yum yum yum!
So, I had a relaxing zero at the NOC - everyone was kind and welcoming. Again, I have fallen behind my group of friends, but I'm not too concerned. Whether I catch up with them, make new friends, or continue along alone - I know I'm where I need to be right now.
Old fashioned train tracks run through the NOC!
Miles today: 1.0
Miles from Springer: 137.3
Miles to Katahdin: 2048.0
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